Stomachs
Goats are ruminants -just like cows -they have a 4 chambered digestive process, and they chew their cud!
There are 4 parts to their stomachs:
- Rumen-this connects to the esophagus and the food churns around in there and rotates back up the esophagus for the goats to ‘chew their cud’
- Reticulum
- Omasum
- Abomasum -this is the true stomach that connects to the intestines
Worms
Goats are especially susceptible to internal parasites & worms -so make sure you treat regularly, and keep an eye on the signs for worms in their system.
There are many different types of worms & parasites that goats can get:
- Stomach worms
- Lung worms
- Coccidia
- Liver flukes
If you notice diarrhea, weight loss, weakness, anemia, or acting distant these could all be signs of worms or parasites.
Worms and parasites can be deadly so make sure you pay attention to your herd, treat as fast as possible, and if you feel the need to contact the vet.
DEWORMERS:
There are many different types of dewormers that you can use for goats, but be careful because as we have developed dewormers, worms have developed to fight against those, so many dewormers out there aren’t effective against stomach worms anymore.
An Ivermectin drench will most likely be your point of action if you notice your goat has worms –please read the instruction and do your own research on how much to give your goat and how to drench them as well.
Appropriate Amount of Fat
Just like humans and every other animal we need fat on our bodies. Goats should always have a thin layer of fat over the breast bone. If they don’t, you should increase their feed.
Eyes & Mouths
Goats gums & eyelids should be a healthy pink color, if any other color is present it could possibly mean they have worms in their system. Their eyes should be either white, yellow, or brown with a black rectangle pupil.
Teeth
Goats have 32 teeth total!
They have ‘cutting teeth’ (incisors) & ‘chewing teeth’ (molars)
Goats only have cutting teeth on the bottom in the front of their mouths!
They do however have chewing teeth on both the top and bottom in the back of their mouths by their jaw.
In the front of their mouths, there is a hard plate on the top the their gums cover so that their bottom teeth have something to hit on.
HOW TO TELL HOW OLD YOUR GOAT IS BY THEIR TEETH:
Some people can tell how old their goat is by looking at their incisors. When goats are super young they will have 2 big front teeth right in the center and smaller teeth on either side. As they get older these small teeth will get bigger up until they are about 5 years old.
Lifespan
Goats in generally live about 12-15 years.
Does specifically live up to 12 years and death is usually related to kidding too late in life. If your doe stops breeding before 10 years old they can live up to 18 years! This is a crucial step on your part, because if the bucks can get to the doe they will still try to breed and can still be successful, so make sure to keep them separated.
Bucks specifically can live up to 10 years. The stress of going into rut each year makes their life span shorter
Wethers specially can live up to 16 years…they’ve got the easy life, they don’t have to breed, don’t worry about going into rut, and obviously don’t have to birth any babies.
Vital Signs
ADULT GOAT
Temperature: 101.5 F – 104 F
(Taken rectally -at rest -avoid extreme weather)
Heart Rate: 70-80 BPM
(stethoscope placed on the inside of the thigh or on lower side of stomach)
Respirations: 12-24 BPM
(Hand on flank -watch the rise and fall -watch condensation on nostrils)
Rumen Movements: 1-2 PM
(Stethoscope one different sections of the stomach)
KID GOAT
Temperature: 101.5 F – 103.5 F
(Taken rectally -at rest -avoid extreme weather)
Heart Rate: 70-80 BPM
(stethoscope placed on the inside of the thigh or on lower side of stomach)
Respirations: 20-40 BPM
(Hand on flank -watch the rise and fall -watch condensation on nostrils)
Rumen Movements: 1-1.5 PM
(Stethoscope one different sections of the stomach)
Diseases & Treatments For Goats
Giving Vaccines
- Try to only give them vaccines when they are dry…this is sally pretty easy because goats don’t like to be out in the rain. If you give them a vaccine while they are wet it can predispose them too abscesses.
- Refrigerate all vaccines once opened!
- Every time you go to use a vaccine bottle alcohol swab the top where you insert your needle.
- Only a clean sterile needle ever goes into the vaccine bottles -never stick a dirty needle in a vaccine bottle.
- Use a new needle for each goat. -If you are trying to save on buying new needles you can use a luer lock syringe so that you can attach different needles. You’ll need to attach a fill needle to the syringe, fill up the medication, put the lid back on, screw the fill needle off, then screw the goat injection needle on. This way you can use the same needle for one goat. Just make sure you label your needles and syringes!
- DO NOT EVER mix vaccines together! You are probably not a pharmacist or a veterinarian or a chemist…just don’t do it.
- ALWAYS read the labels: for the expiration dates, side effects, special instructions, etc…
- Keep records of all your vaccines given
- Burn used needles, syringes, vials, etc. You can also purchase a biohazard container to dispose of them properly.
- Epinephrine is usually the only the only antidote for anaphylactic reactions: does for ruminants: .5ml/100lbs for dairy goats & 1ml/100lbs for meat goats –please consult a vet before using this product!
How to Give Vaccines
Subcutaneous (SUBCU) (SC)-45 degree angle
Pull skin away from body, pinch right above where you’re going to give your shot, insert needle, push meds slowly. This can also be used when an animal has little muscle.
Intramuscular (IM) -90 degree angle
Don’t pull skin away from the body, just insert the needle straight in, and push meds slowly. This goes into the muscle and spreads into the fat layer.
Intravenous (IV) -10 degree angle This goes into the vein…hints the name. You’ll need to find a vein, insert the needle, and push the med slowly.
Oral -You can pour into their feed, give through a pill dispenser, or give through a drench syringe. For the drench syringe you’ll need to tilt their head back, open their mouth and stick the syringe to the back of their mouth and push the medication down their throat. Make sure they swallow this before releasing their head. You can also just push it into the corner of their mouth, just make sure they don’t spit it out.
Types of Needles & Where to Administer Shots
14GA -20GA -adult livestock
18GA – 20GA -Young livestock
½” needles are good for SC shots
INJECTION SITES:
Triangle on neck/Side of neck -most common
Behind shoulder
Top of neck -for young animals
*When doubtful or not labeled always give SUBCU!
Sickness in Goats
Goats are very susceptible to worms and other internal parasites, along with other sickness around the barnyard. Unfortunately when people say goats are so much fun, that fun comes with a lot of work. Goat sickness, just like another animal sickness is not something to take lightly.
They are kind of like babies, they show symptoms of something but are not cooperative in figuring out what the heck is wrong with them!
Having a good goat vet at your fingertips is huge, whether you need them or not, it takes a little bit of the stress off.
Hoof Rot
Toxicity
Goat Bloat
Scours
Worms
Ruminal Acidosis
Salmonellosis
E.Coli
Coccidia
Tetanus
Pneumonia
Anemia
Mastitis
Preventing Sickness in Your Herd
You have to be willing to get in there and get dirty and do all it takes to take care of these animals that you decided to house.
Goats are usually healthy animals, but if not taken care of properly can take a turn for the worst quickly.
Keeping your goat’s hooves trimmed and keeping them on dry ground.
Deworming your goats regularly.
Keeping their feed regimen -little grain, lots of good hay.
Constant fresh water.
Catching any sickness early.
Giving tetanus shots annually.
Giving babies all of the things they need right after kidding.
Contacting your vet if you feel out of your comfort zone.
